The last one might not be quite so critical if you follow the first recommendations, but generally speaking, a large garden (especially one with rich, organic soil) will be better able to take care of any harmful compounds before they are taken up by the plants, than say the potting soil in a houseplant pot for example.
The other issue is that since a lot of the stuff (for lack of a more technical term) in the liquid is not yet stabilized, it also will go anaerobic much more quickly if left to sit – thus creating an even nastier ‘tea’.ĭon’t get me wrong here – I’m not saying that leachate can never be used as a sort of ‘tea’. This in itself can be bad enough, since there are a lot of potentially phytotoxic compounds that can be created (during anaerobic processes). The potential problem with leachate is that, while it DOES typically contain some beneficial compounds/organisms (the more mature your bin the better), it also can contain unstable materials leached from partially decomposed wastes. Unfortunately, there seems to be a lot of misinformation out there re: the definition of worm tea – I suspect that worm bin manufacturers/merchants (in particular, those selling ‘flow-through’ systems with ‘reservoirs’) are largely responsible, although there is plenty of similar info available on the web as well.īottom-line, the liquid that comes out from the bottom of your worm bin/bed is NOT worm tea – it is more accurately referred to as ‘leachate’. On that note, the first important sub-topic we should probably look at is the ‘worm tea vs. This is a closely related topic to that of worm castings (a subject we’ve certainly talked a LOT about as of late) given the fact that castings play a vital role in the creation of good quality worm tea, as you will soon learn. This week we will begin our exploration of the wonderful world of castings tea (aka ‘worm tea’, ‘vermicompost tea’, ‘vermi-tea’ etc).
0 kommentar(er)
